Your Rat's Home

Before you bring your rat home you need to have appropriate housing sorted out. Here is a rough estimate of size- but it is always best to go bigger, if you can, and these are minimum sizes only. Remember – a cage can never be “too big”.
· One rat = 2250 cm2, 360inches2 or 2 ½ square feet
· Two rats = 3150cm2, 504 inches2 or 3 ½ square feet
· Three rats = 4050cm2, 648 inches2 or 4 ½ square feet
· The cage should be at least a foot high, as rats love to stand up tall on their back legs to look at things

There are many different kinds of cages you can buy, all with advantages and disadvantages. Here are the main ones.

Wire Cages:
Advantages-
· They often come in a variety of different sizes and shapes, and often have many levels.
· The rat can exercise her natural climbing ability all over the bars
· Things such as water bottles and hanging toys are easy to attach.
· They are relatively lightweight.
· The bottom is usually removable, and this allows for easy cleaning.
· Excellent ventilation.

Disadvantages-
· They can be very draughty.
· If the bottom or any of the levels are mesh floored, nasty calluses and sores can arise on the rat’s feet. If your cage has a wire floor it is very important to provide newspaper, sheets of cardboard, lino or similar so that the rats have the opportunity to get off the wire. Although rats don't seem to be bothered by it or actively avoid standing on the wire, constant exposure to a wire floor will results in sores and a condition known as 'bumblefoot'.

Examples of good wire rat cages include the Ferplast Jenny and the Savic Freddy.

Aquariums
Advantages-
· Completely draught proof.
· The smooth floor is easy on the rat’s feet.
· Urine cannot soak in, however, corners must be paid special attention when cleaning out or these will harbour germs.
· There is no chance of little Houdini rat escaping through any bars.
· The sides cannot be chewed.
· The single floor layout and warmth natural to an aquarium makes a perfect home for elderly or sick rats.

Disadvantages-
· Aquariums large enough for a rat are cumbersome and heavy.
· The lids supplied with them do not have enough air holes, so a mesh one must be constructed. It should be remembered that the tank would most definitely need a firmly attached or weighted down lid, as rats can jump up to two feet high.
· The single floor layout can be boring for an active rat, especially as the length will be long but usually very narrow, and rats love to climb but an aquarium provides no such opportunity.
· It is difficult to attach things like water bottles so a wire harness should be made that hooks over the top of the tank.
· If aquariums are placed in the sun, a greenhouse effect will occur, and the rat will over heat.

Some people say definitely not to use aquariums because of the build up of smell from the urine. I believe that, as long as the aquarium is big enough, has a well-ventilated lid and is cleaned out weekly, this isn’t a problem. A paper based bedding instead of shavings would help keep ammonia and smell levels down even more, but we’ll discuss that later.

Wooden cages
Advantages-
· Very insulated.
· If it is home-made, the cage can be made very interesting.

Disadvantages-
· Urine will soak into the wood and this will harbour disease and bacteria. Also, ammonia will build up, which is very harmful to the rat’s lungs.
· Animals that can gnaw through concrete easily chew wood. This means that escape attempts may occur, and the cage will need to be constantly repaired.
· Unless there is a wire mesh on the front of the cage, the rat won’t be able to see out.
· Wood, even heat-treated, has phenols in it. These are very harmful to the rat’s sensitive respiratory system, and a long time of exposure to this is potentially fatal.
· Because of the unpreventable soaking in of urine the cage will stink.

Wood shavings are not appropriate bedding for small animals (particularly rats) as wood contains poisonous phenols that attack the respiratory system and liver. Long term exposure to this could cause a myriad of health problems, but there are loads of more appropriate substrates on the market today. By far the best product to use is a paper-based litter (like Bio-Catolet or Megazorb), carboard squares, or hemp. These are far superior to shavings in ammonia control and there has been no report of any illness related to them. They contain no phenols or dust.

A nesting box and nesting material is essential so the rat feels snug and secure whilst sleeping. Pet rats are animals whose ancestry spent their lives in tunnels, burrows and gaps behind walls, and therefore they naturally feel more comfortable sleeping in a dark, enclosed space. Nesting materials are so varied that it is best to try them with your rat and see what she likes. Some rats like to be given sheets of plain paper or cardboard to tear up. that way. Hay and straw should not be used as they are not at all absorbent and they are rigid and hard and may hurt the rat, especially in sensitive areas such as eyes, feet and bottoms. Soft manufactured bedding is the best option, such as edible vegetable parchment. It may be necessary to buy these things from different places. Supermarkets, for example, usually stock a limited range of materials, but these are often cheaper than the same product in a pet shop. Avoid the cotton wool type bedding, as it is not digestible and will clog up the rat’s insides and can get caught around toes.

A heavy earthenware food bowl is important as it cannot be chewed or tipped over. Also, a water bottle is much better to use than a bowl because, again, it cannot be knocked over or filled with bedding that was enthusiastically kicked around. The water bottle and food bowl should be large enough to ensure a couple of days drinking and eating for all the inhabitants. It may be necessary to buy an additional one if you are going away for the weekend.

The cage should be cleaned out once weekly, providing the cage is big enough. If you have a small cage the rat can not escape the smell of urine, which is important as their noses are their strongest sense, and it is more likely that the rat will become ill, so therefore the cage will need cleaning more regularly. Providing that the rat does not urinate in the nest, this does not need changing so often. I have found that it is a good idea to spray the corner(s) used for urinating with a pet disinfectant, which are sold in most good pet shops. Failing this, an extremely diluted household disinfectant can be used, although this is not ideal. Be sure you don't make the cage too clean though, or the rat will double her scenting efforts in order to make it smell more like her territory.

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